Why it took me so long, I really don’t know, but finally it’s finished: The Mönsterfabriken Elsa wrap dress in a lovely dark viscose, Atelier Brunette’s Twig Night. A dress for all seasons, but maybe particularly well suited for winter nights, crisp spring mornings and cool autumn days.
Originally I planned for this dress to be finished back in early September, I think I had it cut out already in August. Somehow this went by the wayside and other projects took over. It’s a shame, really, because it is a perfect dress for autumn with the long sleeves and the warm, dark color. Atelier Brunette really knows how to make a pretty pattern and the colors they offer are truly beautiful. The fabric is a viscose twill, and I think it has lovely drape and shine. It’s lightweight, though, so this is not a warm dress. I think it will be perfect for the first part of autumn before the temperature drops.
Mönsterfabriken has been a favorite of mine since they released their first patterns a couple of years ago. Their patterns are no-nonsense, very wearable modern classics and most of them have several views which means good value. The Elsa dress is no exception with at least three different options. Like their other patterns, this one is beautifully drafted. It has darts at the bust and a seam along the back for shaping. The wrap is secured with ties inside at the right side while the belt is sewn into the overlap at the left side, then wrapped all the way around your waist and tied. The top has a double yoke and facings at the neckline, and the skirt is finished with bias tape. This is a good solution for a curved hemline, but a facing would work, too. The sleeves have deep, beautiful facings.
The two fronts aren’t identical and have to be cut in a single layer, including the facings. The left front goes all the way over to the right side, and the right front stops under the bust. This secures the opening so it doesn’t slide open when you move. The wrap dress can be a little challenging to wear, particularly those in woven fabrics, if the fastening design isn’t good enough.
I made very few alterations to the pattern. I narrowed the ties by a couple of centimeters, and that was all. The sleeves are supposed to be 7/8 length, but on me they fall at my wrist which I like. The fabric came from my stash, I think I had 2.3 meters, and I barely had enough, so there was nothing left for making bias tape. Fortunately Atelier Brunette produces bias tape in several of their fabrics, so I ordered a few meters, and the problem was solved.
The viscose is very fluid and has to be stabilized. I used interfacing in all the facings (neckline and sleeves) and in the ties. The facings along the neck are understitched, but I consider stitching them down through the front because they inevitably peak out a little. This is a very common problem with facings on necklines like these. Another option would be to use bias tape to finish it. I will definitely consider that next time.
Elsa is easy to wear and can even be layered with something under if the temperatures are low, so she is a versatile dress. I’m very happy with how she turned out, and I’m impressed with the fit. The Mönsterfabriken drafters obviously know what they are doing.
Transparency: The pattern was generously gifted to me by Mönsterfabriken with no obligations to post about it.
Pattern: Elsa wrap dress from Mönsterfabriken
Size: 92 (corresponds to a UK size 12/EU size 40)
Fabric: 2.3 meter viscose twill, Twig Night bought from Metermeter plus 3-4 meter bias tape
Time: Actual sewing time is about one day. Cut in August, sewn in January