Note: Kai blazer in wool twill

When theFibre Mood Kai blazer was released in the summer of 2019 I liked it immediately, but it took me another year and a half to get around to actually making it. I’m very glad I did! The blazer is slightly oversized with subtle shaping, and it can be worn with or without a belt. It can be made in most woven fabrics, but will probably look its best in a fabric with some drape, like wool or viscose.

The last few years trouser suits and ensembles in matching materials have been in favor, and I really like the look very much. Not only as combinations, but suits are great as separates, too, which make it easier to find use for them. The traditional business suit is of limited use for my lifestyle, but a more casual iteration is a different matter. I can easily use a more casual jacket both for work and play.

Kai blazer worn with Sara trousers as a suit.

When I made my last pair of Sara trousers I had enough fabric left for a jacket. The fabric is a wonderful, medium heavy wool twill in a deep ink blue. I already knew from wearing the trousers how gorgeous this fabric is, and it was an easy choice for Kai. Kai is lined, has a two-piece sleeve and a slim notched collar. There are no other shaping than in the middle back seam and the side seams. It has patch pockets, a subtle nod to utility wear.

The construction is quite simple, but I wanted a little more substance so I added a lot of interfacing: The upper back, the shoulders, the lapels, the collar of course, the bottom of the hem and the sleeves, the top of the pockets, and I added a sleeve head, too. It really makes a difference, and I highly recommend doing this no matter if the pattern asks for it or not unless you want a very soft garment. A strip of interfacing is the answer if you struggle with wobbly hems. That, and a really thorough press, of course. I lined it in basic black viscose lining without any bells and whistles. It would have looked nice with a bright lining, too, or maybe stripes.

I am aware that sizing and fit are two different entities, depending on what block and size chart the designer is working from. Sometimes people seem to think that if a pattern fits them without any adjustments, it is a well drafted pattern, and vice versa. This is of course not the case as it would be impossible for a designer to draft for all the different bodies out there. Luckily I seem to fit the Fibre Mood patterns well without many tweaks. This one is a regular size 40, and the only adjustment I made was to shorten the sleeve a little. I wish I had shortened it even more, but that’s an easy alteration if I decide to do it later.

The pattern suggests a belt, but I actually prefer it without it.

I have to admit I initially was a little skeptical towards the Fibre Mood patterns. How could they be of decent quality, given the production rate and scale, and to a rather low price? I was sure there had to be some shortcuts somewhere. If there are, they are certainly not in the pattern drafting. The notches add up, the sleeves fit well in the armsyce, and the fit is really spot on compared to the size charts. I have made many Fibre Mood patterns by now, and they’re not always brilliant, but this one is definitely good and stands to comparison with most other similar patterns.

Pattern: Fibre Mood Kai blazer
Fabric: Wool twill from Rainbow Fashion, Oslo
Yardage: 1.8 m
Time: A couple of days

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