Test: Pekka jacket

A few days ago Raphaëlle asked me to review some of the new collection from Readytosew in exchange for a couple of patterns, which I was thrilled to accept. Not only to distract myself a bit during self isolation and social distancing but of course also to help a favorite indie designer of mine. As a long time fan of Raphaëlle’s patterns you shouldn’t expect me to be very critical, but you can trust that I’m honest.

The Pépite collection consists of three patterns, a jacket, wrap pants and an overall. I made the Pekka jacket first. It is an oversized, lined jacket aimed at confident beginners. The wide pockets are the most prominent feature of this design. The simple shape is underpinned with several features that make this jacket stand out from your everyday basic. I immediately noticed the subtle shaping through the vertical seams at the front and back which creates a light cocooning effect. The collar sits beautifully around the neck, and the pockets are just deep enough, but not too deep. This is evidence that the pattern is thoroughly designed. The instructions are detailed, very easy to follow and include a very informative video on the website on how to sew the lining. There’s a sew-along blogpost on the website, too. Well done, and very helpful.

In a review you’d expect to find a little criticism, too, yes? I looked high and low to find something to improve, but frankly, the pattern and instructions are so well made that it was really hard! If anything, I’d suggest staystitching the pocket openings to prevent the opening from stretching out. It would also be useful to have the length of the finished garment in the instructions. That’s it!

Raphaëlle stated four imperatives when designing the Pépite collection (which you will find on her grid and blog). «No notions; appropriate for beginners; not detriment to style and form; suitable for natural, structured fabrics». With this in mind it was very interesting to analyze the @ready_to_sew #pekkareadytosew. The style is inspired by kimonos, but I think it has a very modern feel to it at the same time. The huge pockets are a distinct feature and I adore how they play against the lines in the collar. Pekka is meant to be oversized, but I looked at the finished measurements and decided to size down one size. This was a good decision because I think the fit is perfect for me now. One of the details I love is how well it fits around the neck and shoulders. I think there are a number of other variations possible, and I’m thinking of ways to hack this pattern.

I decided to add a personal “rule”, too: To only use fabric from my stash, and that meant that I had to forego the recommendation of a structured, medium to heavy weight fabric because nothing of the kind was available. However, I find that the pattern can handle a lighter fabric IF it is structured enough. It MUSTN’T be fluid because the pocket’s shape will collapse. What I had was a lovely cotton drill from @clothhouse and the lining is Liberty lawn from @wearethefabricstore. Together they were just structured enough to hold the shape of the pattern, and I love the result. What do you think?

If you are interested in the Pekka jacket, don’t hesitate to ask me if you have any questions. I think it’s a great jacket. Most of all I recommend the extensive guidance on the Readytosew website where a number of helpful blog posts are at your disposal.

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